South Essex College's degree in costume construction was launched in 2015 in partnership with the Royal Opera House (ROH). It is validated and awarded by University of the Arts London.
Most of the teaching takes place in the new Bob and Tamar Manoukian Costume Centre at the High House Production Park in Purfleet. It's the first national centre of excellence for technical and backstage skills and is also home to the ROH's Backstage Centre and Acme artists' studios.
The course emphasises the cut and construction techniques for costume in the following areas: performance art, theatre, opera, dance, music, musical theatre, film and television. Work-related learning is uppermost and includes live projects, competitions, vocational projects and work experience placements. Visits are organised to exhibitions, galleries and professional studios. Every second year student does work experience with ROH.
‘There is also an unusual module on costume conservation which includes access to the Royal Opera House archives,’ says course leader, Lou Cox. ‘The third year includes an ROH project based on a past or present production, such as La Boheme or Swan Lake, which students are free to respond to in any way they wish.
‘There is also work on “breaking down” costumes, which involves constructing them and then learning how to make them look old, tattered, blood-stained, dirty or whatever.’
The course culminates in an interview exhibition attended by Fay Fullerton, ROH head of costume, and this year saw two students awarded prizes. The course staff have regular contact with Fullerton, whose knowledge of a skills shortage in costume was the rationale for starting this course.
‘The course is still quite new,’ observes Cox, who took over as course leader earlier this year having taught on the course since it started. ‘We refine it every year. Nothing is set in stone because industry expectations and fashions change all the time. It's a process. But I think we now have the mechanics of the course as tight as they can be for next year.’
Assessment, both formal and informal includes practical work, technical folders, essays, research, design development, technical drawings and illustrations, textiles directory and samples, a work placement blog, sketchbook, portfolio and final pieces.
The course has already outgrown its premises in just three years. ‘We now work across two campuses,’ says Cox. ‘Since 2017 we've been using the college's Grain campus as well, where our print and dyeing facilities are.’
Entry requirements
‘A typical student might have an A-level in textiles or a Level 3 Extended Diploma in Fashion,’ says Cox. ‘But we're also looking for students who have the potential to develop and the ability to cope with the high level of expectation they will face.’ The course is expected eventually to accommodate 30 students each year. A minimum of 64 UCAS points are required along with GCSE English at level 4 or Grade C (old specification). There is no insistence on specifics such as sewing skills.
Cox also mentions ‘a good work ethic and keenness’ pointing out that many of the skills learned on this course such as time management and decision making are readily transferable.
Application is via UCAS and a portfolio based interview at which applicants should present examples of recent project work that may reference a variety of media. They must also be able to talk about recent shows and exhibitions they have seen.
Career prospects
Likely careers include costume construction, costume design, touring theatre, textiles, dyeing and breaking down, womenswear, menswear, tailoring, prop and costume, running wardrobe, costume conservation and restoration.
‘Our first cohort is graduating this term as our fourth group starts,’ says Cox. ‘Some of them have already got paid professional work to move into immediately after graduation having made contacts during the course and on work placements’
The usual pattern in costume is to work freelance, which is what at least 50% of the first group of graduands have decided to do. As Cox explains: ‘It enables them to try out various ways of working with a range of companies and in different environments before accepting a permanent post somewhere – if that's what they wish.’
Notes for teachers
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Full-time course delivery is 12 hours per week so students have enough time to earn money at the same time if they wish
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There is an open day on Saturday 14 November 2018 at Production Park, Purfleet that provides an opportunity to view Costume Centre, talk to Lou Cox and current students
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High House Production Park is fully accessible with a lift to the upper level, this includes access to the Backstage Centre, café and car parks.
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Further information: tinyurl.com/td-oc-79